Menu
What's new
By:
Filters

Any genius ideas for cable management?

ZeroZero said:
Colors help with identification when your on your back.
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, is there any convention about the colors? Like, red is power, blue is digital, green is audio -- something like that? So that if a guest engineer is engineering or mixing it's easier for him / her to follow what's happening?

When recording here, there is always spaghetti everywhere (headphones, headphone amp, mic cables -- all that).
 
I use these things by IKEA.

1707340346051.png

Have two under my desk and they hold everything that isn't over my desk: cables, hubs, dock, SSDs, etc.

It's a bit of a mess but at least it's not visible and the cables can be easily moved/removed if the need arises.
 
With every new install, I screw these zip tie mounts to hidden spots all around the desk/furniture. Then use zip ties to bundle wire and fasten to the mount. Where possible, I separate the power cables and the audio wires. Everything goes to a patchbay, and the wire runs are kept long with the slack tightly bound up in the zip ties (so I never have to problem of a cable not reaching from the patch bay to a new piece of gear that's added later). When I build my bays, I always include several "future" patch points, because...GAS. If a piece of gear needs to change, rather than unbundling everything, I either use one of the "future" cables, or I cut off the old connector and solder on whatever new kind of connector is needed.
 
Pier said:
I use these things by IKEA.

1707340346051.png

Have two under my desk and they hold everything that isn't over my desk: cables, hubs, dock, SSDs, etc.

It's a bit of a mess but at least it's not visible and the cables can be easily moved/removed if the need arises.
Click to expand...
This looks really useful. Do you remember what Ikea calls it, so I can look for it on their website? Thanks!
 
ZeroZero said:
we can't cut modern cables and replug them. Thus you can either a] keep buying more and more cables or b] settle for bundling an upto 5m cable where 1 metre cable would be better.
Click to expand...
There is a third option: build cables from scratch. That's what I've done with all cables that remain stationary (not guitar or mic cables), like behind racks, under desks and feeding monitors. Get legit Neutrik connectors from B&H for good prices, buy a spool of Beldon and a soldering iron.

But guess what? It all still ends up pretty much a mess.

I like to label cable ends by using paper printed labels (typed up as spreadsheet cells) wrapped around plugs covered with scotch tape... durable, easy to read. A lifesaver when troubleshooting or re-routing is required.
 
Helpful tip for how to share Amazon links (from an ex-Amazon employee)

All you need is like the following example, so as to not share massively long urls

I added a space to keep these from become links- don’t add the space for real!

https:
//www.amazon.com/CrocSee-25ft-Management-Protector-Self-Wrapping/dp/B08887TZH7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=3182ZPCE5SZE9&keywords=cable+snake+mesh&qid=1707403569&sprefix=cable+snake+mesn%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Becomes

https: //www.amazon.com/dp/B08887TZH7/

“dp” is short for “detail page” which is what they call the page for each item.
 
rgames said:
Use 6" baseboards and trim off the lower 3" of drywall. Perfect place for a bunch of cables. Leave the baseboard unattached and pinned with furniture/cabinets/drawers so you can just pick it up and add/remove cables.

BaseboardCableManagement.jpg
Click to expand...
I tried something similar. I got a bit of baseboard, attaxched it to another length of timber, making an L shape, then attached this to the floor and rtucked leads bwehind it. Maybe i should do this again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom